Our guide Samir not only had an encyclopaedic knowledge of his homeland but, more importantly, that other ingredient essential to any self-respecting guide: a twinkle in his eye!

Staring up at the historic Koutoubia Mosque he began his tale like a seasoned story teller.

“We are told,” he said with unshakeable certainty, “that a sultan’s wife decided to eat some grapes during Ramadan, prematurely breaking her daily fast and, as repentance, was forced to melt down all her gold.

“That metal now forms the golden balls at the top of the minaret,” he added with a flourish before pausing for dramatic effect. No one dared to challenge.

And so began our tour of one of Morocco’s most mesmerising cities: Marrakech, where tales are taller than the Atlas Mountains and spices pervade every corner of the atmosphere, as musicians, snake charmers and vendors pool their resources to create a cacophony of crazy chaos!

If Morocco, independent since 1956, demands your attention then Marrakech is the herald that walks you to its from door and announces your arrival!

There are cities you visit, and cities you experience: Marrakech unquestionably belongs to the latter. A mesmerising tapestry of colour, fragrance, history and exuberant street life, the country’s famous Red City assaults the senses in the most captivating way imaginable.

Founded in 1070 by the Almoravid dynasty, Marrakech grew into a powerful imperial capital and trading crossroad between the Sahara, the Atlas Mountains and the Mediterranean world.

Today, its distinctive rose-coloured walls conceal a remarkable heritage, while modern Marrakech offers an altogether different interpretation of Moroccan sophistication.

At its heart lies the Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an extraordinary labyrinth of narrow alleyways, bustling souks, hidden courtyards and architectural treasures. Here, the ancient and contemporary coexist, seemingly without effort.

Navigating the souks is an adventure in itself.

Traders enthusiastically promote everything from intricately woven carpets and hand-crafted lanterns to ceramics, jewellery and mountains of aromatic spices, which can be found in the Rahba area, whilst the Souk el Jeld, traditionally associated with leatherworkers, provides a fascinating glimpse into one of Morocco’s oldest crafts.

Marrakech's ancient souk

...a veritable labyrinth of streets

...stalls, smells and spices

Beautifully worked bags, slippers, belts and other leather goods reflect skills passed through generations.

Bargaining is part of the theatre, and getting lost is almost inevitable. But therein lies much of the charm.

Among the Medina’s architectural jewels is the magnificent 136-room Ben Youssef Madrasa, a former Islamic college rebuilt during the 16th-century Saadian dynasty.

Marrakech's Ben Youssef Madrasa

...a seat of learning...

...for more than 400 years.

Its exquisite geometric tiles, delicately carved cedarwood, elaborate stucco and serene courtyard represent Moroccan craftsmanship at its finest.

“Insects hate cedarwood,” Samir tells us, “which is why the building still boasts its original wooden structures,” he adds with pride on behalf of artisans long since dead.

Its wall are covered in text from the Koran and, at its centre, the stunning pool is where Sunni Muslims in their white jalabiya once performed daily wudu, ritually washing before prayer.

It’s natural hues are the result of using vibrant colours made from henna, saffron, poppy and date seeds, we are told.

Equally enchanting is the nearby Le Jardin Secret, a beautifully restored historic palace garden also concealed within the Medina’s walls.

Its traditional Islamic layout, sophisticated irrigation system and lush plantings offer a welcome escape from the surrounding commotion.

Dominating the city skyline just off the iconic Jemma el-Fnaa market place and cultural meeting point, is the unmistakable Koutoubia Mosque, whose magnificent 12th-century minaret rises approximately 77 metres above Marrakech.

Capable of holding 25,000 worshippers at Friday Prayer, or Jum’ah, each side of the structure is uniquely different, an early way of helping people understand where they were located in the vicinity.

It is also puckered with lots of small holes: the original locaters for scaffolding poles but now home to pigeons and small birds.

Particularly atmospheric at sunset, it remains one of the city’s defining landmarks.

Yet Marrakech is not simply somewhere to explore. It is somewhere to savour.

Moroccan cuisine is a celebration of spices, textures and wonderfully complementary flavours. Cumin, saffron, cinnamon, ginger and paprika appear throughout the country’s culinary repertoire, enhancing fragrant tagines, couscous and slow-cooked dishes.

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Bread is central to everyday life, accompanying almost every meal. Particularly memorable is amlou, a deliciously indulgent blend of roasted almonds, honey and argan oil, often enjoyed with freshly baked bread.

Argan oil itself, produced from the nuts of Morocco’s indigenous argan tree, is a treasured ingredient in both cooking and traditional beauty products.

Our culinary discoveries took us across the city.

At Restaurant Le Douar, situated within the contemporary M Avenue development, Moroccan flavours meet a stylish, rooftop setting.

Rooftop dining

...at M Avenue's Le Douar Restaurant

Another delightful experience was lunch outdoors at the elegant Dar Rhizlane Hotel and Restaurant, where beautiful surroundings created a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.

However, perhaps the most memorable restaurant adventure, was Le Tobsil, hidden deep within the Medina.

So well concealed is this traditional dining establishment that a guide meets guests at the roadside and escorts them through a maze of narrow passageways to its discreet entrance.

The journey alone makes dinner feel like discovering a secret Marrakech!

Our base throughout the visit was the Hotel Palm Plaza, from which we explored both the city’s attractions and the extraordinary landscapes beyond.

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No visit would be complete without discovering Jardin Majorelle, the celebrated botanical garden created by French artist Jacques Majorelle and subsequently preserved by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé.

Its striking cobalt-blue architecture, exotic planting and shaded pathways provide a spectacular contrast to the Medina and make the short drive to the outskirts of the city well worthwhile.

Jardin Majorelle

...once home to iconic fashion designer

...Yves Saint Lauren.

Next door, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech celebrates the designer’s creative legacy and enduring relationship with Morocco.

But there is another Marrakech awaiting discovery beyond the city streets.

At The Ranch at Tahannaout, we enjoyed a unique experience of horse riding, animal watching – the resort boasts kangaroos, camels, buffalos, llamas, gazelles and even varieties of sheep and goats – and stunning cuisine.

The brainchild of cancer survivor, Mr Aboulfateh Hamza, it is now run by his right-hand woman, Fatima Zahra, a powerhouse of Moroccon charm.

Fatima Zahra, The Ranch's GM

“I had worked in tourism across the world,” she told us, “visited this place with my family and fell in love with it. I had to work here but only after convincing Mr Hamza that I was as good as any man. Now,” she grinned “he just leaves me to it.”

Offering up to 10 rooms, as well as frame houses and air-conditioned accommodation domes, The Ranch, ships in its own water, holding a two-year supply on site, and is the perfect family destination.

It also has its own cinema and bird aviary, with a desert setting straight out of a Clint Eastwood spaghetti Western. But, for all its apparent remoteness, it is only 40 minutes from Marrakech with a full pick up and drop off service from Marrakech-Menara Airport if required.

For something altogether more exhilarating, White Camel Lodge and Tents offers the opportunity to explore the dramatic, rocky Agafay Desert landscape by desert buggy and quad bike.

White Camel Lodge and Tents

With vast open spaces and distant mountain scenery, it was a thrilling contrast to the intimate confines of the Medina. Again, the resort offers a unique way to enjoy the desert, with overnight stays, a spectacular infinity pool, bar and top-end cuisine.

Further afield, the spectacular Ourika Valley provides another unforgettable excursion.

Set against the magnificent High Atlas Mountains, the valley reveals a greener, more rural Morocco.

Here traditional villages cling to hillsides and the River Ourika winds between rocky slopes.

At Setti Fatma, we undertook the hike towards the waterfalls, negotiating rocky pathways and mountain terrain, rewarded by beautiful views and refreshing cascades.

Afterwards, lunch beside the River Ourika was a particular pleasure. Restaurants line the water’s edge, offering a wonderfully informal setting in which to enjoy Moroccan dishes accompanied by the sound of flowing water.

Wandering local musicians add their own spontaneous entertainment, turning a simple riverside lunch into another memorable Moroccan experience.

What makes Marrakech and its wider environs, so compelling is its remarkable diversity.

In a single holiday, visitors can wander through centuries of Islamic architecture, haggle in vibrant souks, enjoy exceptional hospitality, explore designer gardens, ride horses, tackle desert tracks and escape into the Atlas Mountains.

It is a destination that constantly surprises, balancing ancient traditions with contemporary luxury, energetic city life with extraordinary natural beauty.

Marrakech does not merely invite you to discover Morocco. It immerses you in it — one colour, one flavour, one unforgettable experience at a time. And long after the journey ends, the magic of the Red City remains.

FACT BOX
For further details on anything featured:
Moroccan National Tourist Office - www.visitmorocco.com

The Ranch Resort - www.theranch.ma
The White Camel Lodges & Tents - www.thewhitecamel.com

Yves Saint Laurent Museum - www.museeyslmarrakech.com
Jardin Majorelle - www.jardinmajorelle.com

Palm Plaza Hotel - www.hotelpalmplaza.com
Dar Rhizlane Hotel & Restaurant - www.dar-rhizlane.com
Le Douar Restaurant - www.ledouar.com
Le Tobsil Restaurant - www.facebook.com/p/Le-Tobsil-100046272837136/